Our bus rolled to a stop in front of Rotorua’s visitor center, which was in the middle of downtown Rotorua. Downtown Rotorua is, let’s just say, underwhelming. We were not at all sure what we got ourselves into as we clambered off the bus with our backpacks strapped to our exhausted bodies, and then it hit us. The SMELL. The ALMIGHTY STENCH of eggs that have been rotting in the sun for thousands of years, permeating the air and accosting our unsuspecting nostrils the moment the bus doors swung open. Our noses scrunched, we went inside the visitor center to try to escape it, but we soon learned: there is no escaping the smell of fart in Rotorua. It is omnipresent, blanketing you in a pungent hug, regardless of whether or not you asked for one (and, let’s be honest, you surely did NOT).
I am kind of exaggerating. The smell is not a pleasant one, but you eventually get used to it, and come to accept it as part of the small town’s charm. Rotorua is known for its geothermal activity, don’tcha know? What’s a little stench of flatulence when you’re within minutes of geysers, therapeutic spas, and neon-colored lakes?
Getting to Rotorua
DRIVE: New Zealand is a relatively small country, so if you’re coming in from any other city on the North Island, driving is a quick and scenic option. The drive from Wellington, New Zealand’s capital city, is about 6 hours; the drive from Auckland, on the opposite tip of the island, is about 3.
FLY: Flying is always an option, as Rotorua has an airport situated 20 minutes outside of city center. A bus ticket from the airport into downtown is $2.50 each way. This airport is small, and has a limited number of flights coming in each day from Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch (meaning that all flights coming from anywhere else will have to detour through one of these three cities, and sometimes for a painfully long layover). The flight is about 45 minutes from Auckland, so if you’re already in Auckland, this is definitely the quickest way in.
BUS (recommended option): The easiest and cheapest route (that we found), was entering Rotorua by bus. We spent a few days in Auckland, and then took a bus out from Auckland Central to Rotorua. The bus ride was 4 hours, but with tickets at $15-30, we couldn’t beat the price tag! For bus schedules and to purchase tickets, check out Rome2Rio.
Getting around Rotorua
Downtown Rotorua is teeny and very walkable, so if you’re in Rotorua to get lunch and shop for 30 minutes, you’ll be fine on foot (but I’m here to tell you, that’s not why you’ll be in Rotorua; everything you’ll want to do and see is beyond the confines of the town). Your best bet, if you really want to venture out to the geothermal parks and spas (which you do), is to rent a car.
We rented a car right in the center of town, just for the day, and were within one hour’s drive of everything our little hearts desired to do and see.
Staying in Rotorua
Hostels
Funky Green Voyager (Meredith and I stayed here and it truly felt like a home away from home)
Hotels
Apartments and B&Bs
Best Things to do in Rotorua
Visit Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa (The Rotorua Museum)
As of the time that this post was being written, the Rotorua Museum is closed for earthquake strengthening, as a recent assessment found the building to be well below the earthquake safety standard. BULLSHIT, but also…responsible I guess.
I’d recommend taking some time to see the building (referred to by some as the most beautiful building in New Zealand), which used to be a famous bath house that offered therapeutic treatments to its visitors. It was the government’s first major investment into the country’s tourism industry, and though not open to the public currently, does continue to offer free tours of the beautiful government gardens. The museum is also right on Lake Rotorua, which makes for a nice little sunset stroll.
Take an Easy Hike around the Lakes
Speaking of lakes, Rotorua and the surrounding area is chock-full of them. Anyone who knows me knows how I feel about lakes (which is that I would have a love affair with each and every one of them, if I could). The Rotorua Visitor Center has a map of all the trekking available in the area. There are different circuits for different fitness levels, leading you through forests and nature reserves. See this pamphlet, starting on page 16, for more information about each circuit and how to get there.
Explore Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland
I wasn’t even aware of the existence of this place until we arrived in Rotorua and started sniffing around the front desk of our hostel. But WOW. If you’re visiting the North Island for the geothermal activity, then baby, Wai-O-Tapu is about to show you a hell of a good time. I am absolutely littering this post with pictures of this gorgeous park because it was so hard to narrow down the options!
Wai-O-Tapu is located in the Taupo Volcanic Zone, just 27 kilometers south of central Rotorua. We arrived around 10 am and went first to see Lady Knox, a geyser that is catalyzed at 10:15 daily, and explodes 10 meters to 20 meters in the air. There were so many screaming school children there that Meredith and I wanted to blow our brains out, but it was exciting to see the geyser, since this is a volcanic area, after all.
The Wai-O-Tapu website claims that it is New Zealand’s “most colorful and diverse geothermal sightseeing attraction.” Who knows if this is true. It certainly sounds good, though, doesn’t it! The geothermal system extends over 18 square kilometers, and you can spend several hours wandering along the three kilometers of guided paths, enjoying the unnaturally bright colors, listening to the bubbling mud, smelling the pungent sulfur. The fact that this is nature is almost unbelievable, and certainly very humbling.
This lake was simultaneously my favorite part of the wonderland and also my own personal hell. Meredith and I, naturally, were completely entranced by the NEON GREEN WATER, so, naturally, we had to indulge in an obnoxious and lengthy photo shoot. All of a sudden, we looked at each other and a mutual understanding passed betwitxt us: our ankles, exposed to the air, were on fire. We reached down to itch them, bewildered, and realized we were both bleeding. BLEEDING! Apparently, there were tiny gnat-like bugs FEASTING upon our flesh, and it hurt like a bitch. We ran away screaming, which was dramatic, but seemed justified at the time.
Don’t let the wildlife deter you from seeing this gorgeous lake though, or any of the other lakes in the park. Just cover your ankles. Pretend it’s the 1800s, you fast and loose sluts.
Have a Spa Day
As you may have already derived, geothermal activity means natural hot springs, which have been used for years as spas due to the therapeutic properties of the waters. Meredith and I strapped on our bathing costumes and drove to the Polynesian Spa, which advertises itself as New Zealand’s “original and iconic geothermal bathing experience.” Again, I’m not here to fact check these people, so I have no idea if they are actually New Zealand’s original, but we were pleased with our experience.
We booked the cheapest spa option, which was the sky view private alkaline pool. You can book each private pool, or family or pavilion pools, for 30 minutes at a time, and your skin comes out smooth as a baby’s bottom when you’re finished.
Take a tour through the canopies
The redwoods of New Zealand were completely unbeknownst to me, but apparently there is a whole-ass redwood forest just five minutes drive from downtown Rotorua. Our last night, a few hours before we had to board our bus set for Wellington, we headed to the forest and traversed across the 700 meter treewalk, with 28 suspension bridges, lots of informative plaques, magical hanging lanterns, and towering trees that are nearly 120 years old. It’s a unique experience, inexpensive, and an incredibly leisurely way to end the evening.
Enjoy a Maori Hangi
Out of all the things, we knew we absolutely had to learn more about the Maori people in Rotorua, because indigenous people make up a majority of the Rotorua population, even today! In fact, the Maori account for 15% of the entire population of New Zealand.
We decided to go with the famous Tamaki Maori Village, the evening experience, which included several exciting performances, followed by a walk-through of a pre-European village. They have several stations set up, and at each one they taught us about their culture and their customs, like poi (a ball on a cord that is used for dancing and to build strength). The entire experience was interactive: fun and educational. And these people are an absolute DELIGHT.
The guy on the right looked completely non-enthused and pissed the entire time we were learning about Maori traditions and customs, but his entire face came to life when it came time for the pre-dinner entertainment: the haka, a fierce ancient war dance that includes lots of stomping, chanting, and tongue. I had to restrain myself from sitting in awe with my jaw on the floor. It was phenomenal.
The hangi, which is a big Maori feast that is cooked underground (geothermal properties, don’t forget), was originally the big draw of the experience (though we ended up enjoying every minute). We got to see them pull the cage out of the ground, the scent of meat and potatoes and vegetables filling the air and enchanting our senses. The meal was delicious, the people were lovely, the booze was free-flowing, and we truly had the time of our lives. Yes, it is touristy, and definitely one of the universally-regarded “must-do’s” of Rotorua, but I still think it is completely worth it.
Go Wine Tasting at the Top of the World
If you have time and a little bit extra in your budget, take a gondola to the top of the Skyline to the Volcanic Hills Winery and go meet Johnny Rainbow, a staggeringly eccentric fellow who will guide you through a tasting of New Zealand’s finest wines as you look out over Lake Rotorua. We arrived right before sunset, and were the only people in the tasting room, so we got to talk to Johnny Rainbow one-on-one, learn about each of the wines in detail, and hear about how much he, and apparently the rest of Kiwis, hates Aussies. We were good and tipsy by the end, and got to enjoy probably the best view in town.
Go Zorbing
What’s a trip to New Zealand without rolling down a hill in a gigantic blow-up ball? It is one of the most New Zealandy things you can do while in New Zealand. In fact, Rotorua is the only place in New Zealand where you can zorb, and it is the very first zorbing site that was first developed in 1997. It’s a bucket list activity for certain, and not to be missed!
Rotorua is strange, wonderful, beautiful, and unique. Meredith and I traveled through both the northern and southern islands of New Zealand, and Rotorua was undoubtedly our very favorite. This unique gem should be on your list, and if you’re not already making plans to visit, then start right this instant. Just prepare yourself for the stench. Believe me, you’ll come to love it.
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