I have to admit, I was skeptical about Hanoi. I was not expecting to like it at all. After a couple of days in Ho Chi Minh City, which was certainly not my favorite place, and hearing other travelers’ opinions of this northern city, I wasn’t even particularly excited about the few days I had planned in Hanoi. Big, bustling cities are hardly what I gravitate towards in general, so why would I enjoy myself in Vietnam’s capital? How could anything top all the wonderful things I had experienced already in central Vietnam? How flippin’ anti-climatic could this trip to Vietnam be??!?
Hold up there, tiger. My lack of enthusiasm could not have been more unwarranted.
That’s right. I was wrong. I am admitting it, okay?
Maybe I just met too many other fellow backpackers who wrinkled up their noses at the mention of Hanoi, but it truly surprised me just how much I adored this city. It shocked me how much there was to do, and how many of those things I actually really wanted to do. It probably helped that it was the last city I visited in Vietnam, so I had become accustomed to crossing the road and dodging speeding motorbikes. Once you almost die 25 times per day, you start to become numb to the overwhelmingly busy atmosphere and you start to revel in the beauty of where you are. I met incredible people, was constantly on the move, and could have stayed for so much longer had I not had to return to that pesky job thing. Whose bright idea was working for a living, anyway? I’d like to have a word with them.
Here were some of the highlights of my time in Hanoi. I swear I am getting teary-eyed writing this because I miss Vietnam so damn much.
Do
See a Show at Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
Something I did not know until I reached Vietnam was that “water puppetry,” the art of making puppets dance across water, is a real thing, and it is actually a popular tradition among the Vietnamese, dating back to the 11th century. It all started when villagers would play with puppets when their rice paddies flooded as a form of entertainment. Now you can find water puppet shows in theaters across the country.
The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is the most popular place to catch one of these shows in Hanoi, located right next to Hoan Kiem Lake, and is a really ideal place to go if you want an experience unique to the area. Yes, the entire show is in Vietnamese, but the art form is really interesting to watch, the music is amazing, several parts are very funny, and it a chance to delve into Vietnam’s cultural history.
There are five shows per day, at $5 per ticket for about an hour of entertainment. I walked up and bought mine an hour and a half before the show, but if you get there a bit earlier you can probably secure a better seat.
Grab a Beer in the Old Quarter at Bia Hoi Corner
My very first night in Hanoi I wandered down to the bar at my hostel, claimed my nightly free beer that was included in the price of my dorm bed, and introduced myself to some American guys who were standing around and chatting. They were all in their 30s and traveling with their wives, and they invited me to come along with them to experience Hanoi’s crazy nightlife. If I learned anything while traveling on my own, it was that I am small and cute enough to be endearing and unimposing, and often found myself hanging out with married or dating couples at bars. I swear they invited me to come along, though I am not above forcing myself on people and convincing them that I am the friend they have always wanted and needed.
On this particular night, we headed out in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and spent hours on “Beer Street,” a lane full of bars that spill out onto the street, little plastic chairs lining the way. The Bia Hoi intersection is famous for its cheap, local beer, a plastic cup costing about 20 cents. Do you even realize how much beer you could drink with only $5 worth of Dong in your pocket?? (It’s 25 cups. I was a math major).
If you don’t mind lively crowds and love cheap beer, this is where you should go. The locals come here too; I met several Vietnamese men who geeked out over the fact that I share a name with one of the main characters in How I Met Your Mother, and when we parted ways they waved excitedly at me, screaming “Bye, Robin Sparkles!” through the night. THE CUTEST.
Visit the Vietnamese Women’s Museum
This museum is huge, several stories tall, and worth at least a couple hours of an afternoon. It covers topics from traditional garb and family life to heroines of the Vietnam War, which is nothing short of uplifting and inspiring. As a feminist and champion of women, it was refreshing to see an entire building dedicated to how Vietnamese women live, how so many of them work hard to support their families, and all of their amazing contributions to society over the past century. An entry ticket, including a self-paced audio guide, is $3, making it an absolute must-visit spot.
Get the Most Affordable Massage in the World
I was a bit skeptical about these cheap-ass massages that were advertised on every street corner, especially after talking to some people who admitted that massages with “happy endings” were a common practice, at least for the men. In case you’re pure of mind, this is a sexual favor that costs an extra $50 or more. To each his own, but that sounds mighty awkward and unarousing to me.
I think the key here really is going somewhere legitimate and acclaimed. On my last day in Vietnam, after returning from two overnight trips and feeling the need to relax, I headed to Midori Spa, which is staffed entirely by the visually impaired. At first I was a little unsure about how I felt about having a male masseuse (but didn’t complain, since I walked in and was immediately walked back to a room), but he was incredibly kind, well-trained, and professional. At one point my towel fell completely off into my lap and I panicked. I like to think of myself as free-spirited, but I actually would prefer not to be completely naked in front of strangers, if that’s okay. However, the masseuse didn’t try to even glance once, which I found surprisingly polite, until I could cover those puppies back up. And the massage was incredible. I’ve had one massage in my lifetime, 30 minutes for about $60 in America, and this was a better quality, hour-long massage for only $10.
After I was finished, I was offered a cup of tea and was able to relax in the lobby for a bit before heading back out into the blistering heat. Midori Spa, you were a little slice of heaven on an already heavenly trip.
Spend a Few Days Trekking in Sapa…
Sapa is accessible from Hanoi via overnight train or bus. And just LOOK at that landscape, come on. Despite the heavy tourism in the area, the region is so enchanting and serene that you’d be crazy not to make the trip.
If you need further convincing, read this post on visiting Sapa.
…Or Cruising Halong Bay
Even more popular than trekking Sapa is taking a junk boat out on Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. People come from all around the world just to glide among the limestone islands of this emerald green bay. The drive from Hanoi is four hours one way, so day trips are possible, but overnight trips are even better.
For more details, read this post on sailing Halong Bay.
Eat
Bun Cha at Bun Cha Dac Kim
Bun cha is a dish that originated in Hanoi, and it is the most flavorful BBQ pork ever to grace my tastebuds, so you would be committing an atrocity by not having it at least once. From the locals who were working at my hostel, I discovered that Bun Cha Dac Kim is considered the best place to get this deliciously savory local dish.
I ended up sitting at a tiny little table with a guy who hailed from Boston, and we chatted about our respective traveling experiences as we snarfed down our bun cha. I cannot tell you just how good this was; words will not do it justice. Even learning about this guy’s near-“happy ending” experience during his massage in the south of Vietnam was not enough to deter my appetite.
Banh Mi at Banh Mi 25
A Canadian girl I met in Hoi An was absolutely RAVING about Banh Mi 25. She talked about this little street vendor like a long-lost lover, the gleam of love and passion twinkling in her eye. With glowing reviews like that, I found it hard to not make a bee-line for it the day I arrived in Hanoi.
Was it fantastic? Absolutely. But banh mi is always fantastic. Though you order the sandwich at a cart, they also have a restaurant down the street with little tables and chairs for enjoying your banh mi if you decide not to take it to go.
See
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
History buffs: this one’s for you. I’ll admit to not knowing one iota of history about Vietnam prior to my trip, but everyone should know who Ho Chi Minh was: the communist leader who led the independence movement against the French in the 1940s. Hanoi is his final resting place, and you can go and visit him while there. The mausoleum is protected by guards, and Ho Chi Minh was incredibly beloved, so they enforce a strict dress code on the grounds. I was wearing a pair of running shorts and was shooed away for my far-too-provocative outfit. The structure is beautiful, though, and it is a chance to learn a lot about Vietnamese history, as long as you cover up those skanky thighs.
Presidential Palace
Hanoi’s Presidential Palace is a taste of French Colonial architecture in the heart of what was once Indochina. The palace itself hosts government meetings and is not open to the public, but you can walk around the grounds and enjoy this distinctly European landmark. Ho Chi Minh refused to live in the ornate palace, and instead took up residence in a smaller, more modest house on the grounds. The palace is right beside the mausoleum, and both give you a glimpse into this Vietnamese hero’s life and his impact on the people of the country for the years after his death.
Temple of Literature
The Temple of Literature was originally built in 1070 as a Temple of Confucius, and is home to Vietnam’s first national university. The whole temple is dedicated to learning more so than to any sort of religious affiliation. The complex is beautiful and dedicated to the scholars who died in the city, so it is another opportunity for HISTORY. The entrance fee is about $1.50, and it offers an escape from the bustling city into a oasis of green grass and gorgeous architecture.
I’d recommend arriving early, because this is a particularly popular spot among school groups. Unless you want to wade your way through cackling uniformed children and their cell phones on your tranquil stroll, then be sure to beat the crowds.
Train Street
This was a really unexpected but exciting discovery that I made while strolling around the city. It is a real residential street with actual families living on it, but with one caveat: a train blasts through here twice a day, sending people into a mad dash into their homes or flattening themselves against the walls to avoid getting splatted like a pancake all over the train tracks. It is so incredibly narrow and the concept of living here is terrifying, but it is absolutely beautiful and one of the most unique streets I’ve ever seen.
The street is located at Ngo 224 Le Duan and is pretty walkable from Old Quarter. Just be sure to watch the track and don’t let yourself get flattened, for the love of all that is holy.
Hoa Lo Prison
Otherwise known as the Hanoi Hilton, this is the site of what was once a prison to house the Vietnamese under French rule and later American prisoners during the Vietnam War. Perhaps its most well-known guest was Senator John McCain, who spent a total of 5 and a half years a Vietnamese prisoner after his plane was shot down. Though most of the prison has been torn down, a museum now stands in its place and draws a huge number of tourists every year.
I found the museum to be very powerful, depicting the horrors of what life was like there inside the cells. A video that was playing on loop showed the American POWs during the Vietnam War playing ping pong, running around, and laughing together. Not many citizens of the world look favorably on the United States for what happened during that time, but it was certainly not the case that the “Hanoi Hilton” was a vacation resort. One of the most interesting things about Vietnam was seeing how history has been written from their point of view, as it differs so drastically from American accounts.
Overall, at a $1.50 entry fee, the museum is more than worth it, if for nothing more than the historical significance.
My time in Southeast Asia was far too short, and I am already planning a trip back. A few days in Hanoi is a no-brainer. Have you been to Hanoi? Leave your favorite thing about it in the comments!
