The Ring of Kerry: a 179 kilometer loop in southwestern Ireland that takes you along the country’s rugged coastline, its green, rolling landscapes, jaw-dropping cliff sides, thundering waterfalls, medieval ruins, colorful towns, and some of the best photo ops you’ll probably get in this lifetime. It is an incredibly popular attraction, and it’s a drive that is on every traveler’s bucket list.

Actually, nope. If you’re uncultured, like me, maybe you’ve never even heard of the Ring of Kerry. It’s existence was a complete mystery to me, right up until I arrived on the Iveragh Peninsula.

I arrived in Ireland with absolutely no plans whatsoever for the week I was going to spend driving my rental car around the island. Literally none. Nothing was booked, I didn’t know anything about Ireland aside from the fact that the Irish are lucky and love beer and have sexy accents. I saw Killarney on a map and decided to stay a couple of nights, and my hostel was advertising day trips around the Ring of Kerry like it was going out of style. Naturally, I figured it was probably something I should do, so I Googled for 15 minutes and got myself ready for a day along the Ring.

And I will tell ya, I am SO glad I did. This drive was probably my favorite part of my entire sojourn in Ireland, and Ireland is officially one of my favorite countries (so you know it has to be good).

Where to Stay

I stayed in Killarney, because I didn’t know any better. Turns out, though, that it is actually the hub for this particular attraction, and most people who are driving the Ring of Kerry end up staying in this quaint, vibrant little town. Killarney, though I ended up spending most of my time there on the road, was so charming. It is full of traditional Irish pubs, and any given night you can find one where you can grab a pint, listen to live Irish music, and chat with drunk Irish people. It is a DELIGHT, and somehow even the drunk Irish people are completely charming, whereas if an older drunk American man tried to approach me in a bar I would probably want to punch him in the jaw. Say what you want about Americans, but they really are not that charming, and they are the most obnoxious drunks.

The town of Killarney is also right on the edge of Killarney National Park, and it is within walking distance from pretty much anywhere you decide to stay, so your mornings will always be chock-full of running and hiking routes. I ran a few miles through the park early one day and was just blown away by how GREEN. Ireland really is as green as you’d think, and Killarney is one of the most peaceful towns I’ve ever been.

Here are some of the best hotel deals in Killarney:


Booking.com

Renting a Car in Ireland

Read my guide here about renting a car in Ireland and what to expect. Driving the narrow roads is tricky, but having a car to explore the nooks and crannies of this country is 100% a great idea.

Route

The route I took, which added on just a bit, particularly on the western end of the loop, is 221 kilometers total, and took about 4 hours and 45 minutes of driving time. It’s a lot of driving for one day, but if you plan it right, you can have plenty of hours for sight seeing and ample opportunity to pull off the road for a photo. Plus, the route is all along the N70, so it isn’t easy to get lost.

Killarney National Park

As you leave the center of town, you’ll wind your way through Killarney National Park, the very first national park ever established in Ireland. Spanning 26,000 acres, the park is adjacent to town and nestled at the base of the Macgillycuddy Reeks, which is Ireland’s highest mountain range.

Ross Castle

If you go to Ireland, you’re bound to (and are probably expecting to) see a lot of castles. I mean, A LOT. But many of them are mere ruins of what once was, which is why Ross Castle, which was recently restored and still in one big piece, is so breath-taking. The castle dates back to the 1600s and sits right on one of Killarney National Park’s many lakes. For a look into how people lived hundreds of years ago, the castle offers guided tours of the tower house for 5€ (you can’t get inside without a tour).

Muckross House and Abbey

A short drive down the road from Ross Castle is Muckross House, a 19th century mansion built for Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife Mary Balfour. At the time, the estate cost 30,000€ to construct, and as it passed to new owners over the years, more than 100,000€ worth of improvements were invested into this lavish home. You can enter the house for a fee, or wander through its gardens for free. If anyone is wondering what to get me for Christmas, this house is it. You can’t beat those lakeside views.

Down a short walking path from Muckross House is old Irish monastery Muckross Abbey, first built in the 6th century and today a modern graveyard situated among the ruins.

Torc Waterfall

After leaving Muckross, you’ll continue southwest through the park until you reach Torc Waterfall. You will have to drive down a super narrow road for what seems like forever, which may or may not have you sweating bullets, gripping the wheel until your hands cramp, and getting exasperated looks from people driving the opposite way, causing you to apologize profusely to the air and hyperventilate as you try not to fall off the side of the road.

I have faith that you are less neurotic than me, though, because most people are.

The narrow couple of miles to the car park is absolutely worth it. After parking, you’ll walk for a bit on a trail through moss-covered trees until you reach the falls, which are roaring with clear, crisp waters. You can also continue to hike up through the wooded area for some nice views of the valley and lakes.

I realized during my trip to these falls that proper footwear on this trip was mandatory. I almost fell on my ass in the mud as my Converse slipped out from under me and my whole life flashed before my very eyes. The hike is not difficult nor is it long, but it may be a little bit slippery from rain. Everyone else I saw was wearing hiking boots and carrying hiking sticks in each hand, which may have actually been just slightly overkill. This isn’t Everest, people.

Ladies View

There are plenty of places to stop within Killarney National Park, but Ladies View, near the southwestern edge and 19 miles out of town, is worth a special mention. The parking is plentiful, and so is the expansive, panoramic beauty that you’ll get to feast your eyes on. Absolutely stunning, but don’t take my word for it.

Molls Gap

After exiting the national park, you will come across a mountain pass teeming with sheep and incredible views of the Macgillycuddy Reeks, the Black Valley, and the Lakes of Killarney.

Kenmare

At this point you’ll probably be needing a bathroom break, and Kenmare is the next stop on the N70. I was able to find a small parking lot near a church and walk into town a bit. All Irish towns have one thing in common: their vibrancy. If I could paint all American towns just like this I would. Everything is a soft pastel and gives you seriously cozy vibes. If you’re there between 10 am and 4 pm on a Wednesday, be sure to stop by the farmer’s market to pick up some fresh, local snacks.

When I was here, I also headed to the Kenmare stone circle, or The Shrubberies, because I looked it up and it sounded like a big deal. Come one, come all, come see one of the largest stone circles in southwest Ireland! I’m sorry, but are there a whole lot of stone circles in southwest Ireland? Am I supposed to be excited about this, or even know what the heck this means? Apparently, these stone circles, which, I guess, are a thing (100 of them in southwest Ireland alone), were built during the Bronze Age from 2,000 to 500 B.C. They were believed to be for ritual and ceremonial purposes, and were often situated based on solar and lunar events, like the solstice or, in this case, the setting sun. In the center is a type of burial monument known as a Boulder Burial. It’s like an Irish Stonehenge. The road leading up to it is lined with gorgeous little houses as well, so it is worth a quick visit for the historical aspect (just remember to drop a 2€ donation at the entrance).

Sneem

If you fancy yourself an Irish coffee, or just want to stretch your legs, pull off in Sneem for a bit. The village is small, but it has plenty of places to grab a drink and get to know some of Ireland’s quirky characters (such as John and his mountain goat Puck, who were more than happy to have a conversation with me about Puck’s cud).

Derrynane House

For more insight into Irish history, make a quick stop at Derrynane House. This house was once the home of Daniel O’Connell, a famous 19th century Irish politician and activist who is often referred to as The Liberator. He campaigned for Catholic emancipation and had a huge impact on religious freedom in both Ireland and Great Britain. I knew nothing about the man prior to visiting his home, which is unfortunate because his legacy is an important one. Entry into his home is only 5€, and there are snacks and coffee available.

Coomatloukane

This area was just a breathtaking place to pull over and soak up the view. I would not recommend taking a tour bus, if for nothing else than this reason. You don’t want to miss out on a chance to stop for a minute, look out, and remember that you’re in goddang Ireland, the original Emerald Isle herself.

Skellig Ring

At this point it is mid afternoon and I was growing weary. I had been driving for so long, and all my snacks were gone except for a few stale almonds, and the sun was already starting its descent. I figured I could head back, stopping at anything that seems interesting, but ultimately making my way towards Killarney again. But then, the sign. “Skellig Ring.” I knew I’d veer off the N70 loop a bit, but I wanted to see what was up. A ring within a ring? The concept seemed too good to pass up.

And good gravy. Skellig Ring was, far and away, the most awe-inspiring part of the whole drive. A short, 18 kilometer loop right off the Ring of Kerry, it is nothing but views on views on views, from the Skellig Islands to the serene beaches to the cliffs that I never wanted to leave. Forgive me if I am a little bit dramatic about how much I enjoyed this miniature ring.

Ballinskelligs Castle

Yes, you will come across some white sand beaches on your drive. This drive really has it all. Who would have thought that you could hike through the woods to a waterfall in the morning and walk along the beach in the afternoon, only a handful of miles apart? I enjoyed this stop mostly because I got to play with some random stranger’s dogs on the beach, but in true Irish fashion, you’re not going to get away with avoiding another 16th century castle, framed beautifully against the mountainous backdrop.

Kerry Cliffs

OH MY. OH MY GOD. THE KERRY CLIFFS. THE GREATEST PART OF THIS ENTIRE DAY. I am serious. And to think I almost didn’t even get to see them, because I didn’t even know they existed. The Cliffs are right outside of the town of Portmagee, and there is a 4€ entry fee, which I was not in the least bit keen on at first. However, after a short walk to the cliffs from the car park, I was BLOWN AWAY. Both literally, nearly right over the edge by the wind, and figuratively, by the sheer insanity of how spectacular these 1,000 foot cliffs are. I can sense I am being dramatic again, so I will try to get a grip.

Have you ever visited a place that is so astounding in person that you find yourself taking the same photo over and over again, trying to capture the beauty on film to reminisce about later with everyone you know? But every picture is just like the last one: inadequate. Nothing can possibly encapsulate how you feel about that place and there’s no way to reproduce its beauty. That is exactly how I felt about the Kerry Cliffs. Please do not miss them under any circumstances.

I am not kidding, the water really was that turquoise.

Portmagee

Another adorable village, this one known for its fishing and a port to dock boats. From here, you can also reach Valentia Island via the Maurice O’Neill Memorial Bridge if you have enough time, but the island is 11 kilometers long with a lot to do. I forewent the expedition and gave myself some more time to admire Ireland’s natural beauty.

Cahergall Stone Fort

The Ring of Kerry is overflowing with stone forts, known as cashels. The Irish are all about arranging stones in circles, apparently. If you do stop to see one, I would recommend Cahergall. Irish stone forts are hard to date, but it is believed that they were built as defensive homesteads or farmsteads. This baby was HUGE; the fact that they were able to build such an imposing and sturdy structure nearly 2000 years ago is unbelievable. The fort was relatively empty at the later hour when I visited, so it was a peaceful stop.

The car park is about 2 kilometers off the main road, and then a short walk to the stone fort itself. There is another stone fort that shares the same car park, Leacanabuaile Fort, so both are worth the visit.

Gap of Dunloe

It was nearing sunset, and I was physically and mentally exhausted. Driving the Ring of Kerry solo is totally doable, but you are the only one picking up the slack. The only one driving, the only one taking photos. It was a wild experience, and it was draining in the best possible way.

The Gap of Dunloe was my final stop on my trip around the Ring of Kerry. It is a narrow mountain pass forged between the MacGillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain. I was celebrating my decision to drive in the direction I did, because once I reached the Gap of Dunloe, it was practically deserted. Just me, the ridiculously narrow roads, and the sheep who were perilously meandering along the side of it. I did have some nice conversations with the sheep, though, which entailed me saying hi to them and asking if they would pose for a photo for me, and them proceeding to do everything in their power to be as unphotogenic as possible.

The road was stressful to drive even with very few other cars sharing it. I’d hesitate to go during the heat of the day when tourists descend upon this site like vultures. The tranquility in the early evening was absolutely perfect. Keep in mind also that people rent bikes and ride through the pass, so be extra alert while you’re driving.

Before You Go

If you take any advice prior to your day expedition, heed these:

• Drive the loop clockwise, always. The road is usually thronged with tourists aboard gigantic, unwieldy buses, and getting stuck behind one of them will not only ruin your view, but it will test your patience as every turn is taken with extreme (sluggish) care. These buses always drive the Ring in a counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise) direction, so your best bet (and what most people will tell you) is to drive clockwise to avoid any run-ins. It also usually ensures that the places at which you stop will be less congested throughout your journey.
• Start early. If there are a bunch of other drivers who also caught wind of the clockwise driving secret, then it could still get a little crowded. If you get an early start, you’ll likely avoid crowds altogether, and you’ll have more time to stop at your leisure. Most tour buses start around 9 am, so earlier than that is best.
• Take snacks. I decided that I was more interested in seeing the natural wonders that Ireland has to offer, rather than spending too much time in the small towns around the Ring, so I brought snacks from the grocery store to eat throughout the day in order to avoid stopping for a time-consuming, sit-down lunch. My lap was rarely without a large pile of baguette crumbs the entire drive.
• Check the weather. If possible, try to go on a day where it won’t be entirely overcast. Part of what makes this trip so enjoyable are the views, and if you can’t see any views then it won’t pack the same punch.
• Expect rain anyway. Somehow, someway, I managed to get through an entire day in Ireland without getting caught in a downpour. I could see the blue of the sky nearly my entire trip. It was shocking, an anomaly (and it was the only day of my stay in Ireland for which this held true, which was a stroke of phenomenal luck). Ireland loves to change weather at the drop of a hat, to keep you on your toes and spice up your day, so even if rain isn’t in the forecast, bring clothes for any type of weather.
• Bring a GPS. Just in case you decide to veer off the N70 route, a GPS will help you get back on track. I needed a GPS the entire time, because even just following one road is often too much for my frail, directionally-challenged brain to handle.
• Also bring a phone charger. It’s a long day.
• Stop whenever you want. Don’t plan too much, because you don’t want to miss anything. This is your trip for you to do your way. There are no rules, and there are usually places to pull off the side of the road whenever you see something you want to gape at. Just be careful. A lot of the roads are winding through mountains, so exercise caution as to not fall and die.
• Take lots of pictures. Because this is a day you’ll want to remember.