I recently met an Australian girl on my travels who, upon my mentioning all the time I spent in her home country, was genuinely confused as to what there possibly is to do. Australia, really? Australia doesn’t seem like a good tourist destination, she insisted. Like what do out-of-towners find to do in someplace like Melbourne? She scoffed, shrugging, indignant. Who in their right minds would enjoy such a place?
Maybe Melbourne is like the Cleveland of Australia? Because I’m pretty positive no one would come to America to visit Cleveland. Or Baltimore, for that matter, but I’m leaving convincing people to come and visit Baltimore for another post.
However, as one of those eager and bright-eyed out-of-towners, I actually found Melbourne to be rife with excitement, from art to parks to restaurants and bars. I was surprised by the hustle and bustle, the streets packed with all sorts of different people, running to a business meeting or to meet friends.
Getting into Melbourne from the airport
- Fastest option: Your very best option, if you’re trying to get into the city quickly, would be to take the Sky Bus from right outside the arrivals terminal. It is cheap (relatively) and it is fast (only about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the traffic). The bus leaves every 10 minutes from the airport, 24 hours a day and 7 days a week, and takes you right into city center. There’s free wifi on board, and you can buy your tickets either online or right at the ticketing booth at the curb.For a one-way ticket for an adult, you’ll pay 18 AUS$. Taking a taxi or an Uber would be two to three times more expensive, and not much quicker, so why waste your hard-earned cash?
- Cheapest option: You can also pay around $6-10 for the public transportation, by taking the 901 bus to Broadmeadows Station, and then switching to the train to Flinders street. This option will take around an hour and a half, and requires more work on your part, but it will save you a bit of money.
Getting Around
Public transportation in Melbourne is really top-notch. You can get anywhere in the city either on the tram or the subway pretty easily, all using the same Myki card, which costs $6 to purchase and then around $4 per trip. You can “top off” your Myki at any of the stations around the city.
Where to Stay
My sister and I went into this trip with minimal planning, keeping our minds open to the endless possibilities of the southern hemisphere. We are not free spirits by any means, but it is sometimes fun to pretend to be in a place where no one knows you from Adam (even if you can’t drink more than a few drinks in a night and end up sneaking out of the bar and into your cozy hostel bed before anyone realizes you’re gone).
When picking a place to stay in Melbourne, however, it made most sense to us to stay in the CBD, or the central business district. The CBD was right smack dab in the middle of the city, a 20 minute walk from the train and bus station with transportation to and from the airport, across the street from the tram and metro stations, and within walking distance to most anything you’d be interested in seeing or doing.
Booking.com
Day 1
Go for a run (or a walk) on The Tan
Melbourne is one of my favorite cities for running. And I’ve run in a lot of cities. It’s not just that there are tons of runners everywhere you go, but that there are plentiful places to run that are scenic and challenging. The Tan is possibly Melbourne’s most popular running route, a 3.8 kilometer loop around the Botanical Gardens that involves a little bit of incline and a lot of nice views.
Botanical Gardens
While you’re at it, take a wander through Melbourne’s Royal Botanical Gardens, an expanse of sprawling green serenity, home to over 10,000 plant species from around the world.
Shrine of Remembrance
Situated within the gardens is the Shrine of Remembrance, a war memorial originally built in memory of those who had lost their lives during World War I, but now serving to honor all Australians who have served in war. The architecture of the building is in itself strong and imposing, and there are amazing views of Melbourne from its front steps, but there is also a chance to take a tour through the memorial and learn a bit more about the history in which it is steeped.
Grab street food right of Flinders Street
My sister and I actually found this street immediately after arriving, both on the brink of starvation after over 24 hours of travel from the United States. Degraves Street is narrow but not hard to find, being only right across the street from Flinders Street Railway Station. Closer to Flinders Street are a bunch of small restaurants offering sandwiches, soups, and other quick bites to eat, and the farther down you walk, the cheaper the culinary options. We meandered all the way to the far end of the street (ignoring nervous Australians asking if we were freezing, since we were in shorts in the dead of winter, even though we had just come from the blistering summer and also probably smelled like ass) and each got a hardy sandwich for about $3 each.
Hosier Lane
Also off of Flinders Street is Hosier Lane, world famous for its bright, colorful, and sophisticated graffiti. I mean, this place is iconic. It is consistently listed as one of the most popular things to do in Melbourne, and it is literally just a street. Even the dumpsters are pretty (and yes, they smell like the oldest, most rotten garbage I have ever smelt and I would have vomited standing so close to them were I not so committed to getting this colorful shot).
National Gallery of Victoria
This multi-level museum right near the south bank of the Yarra River is one of the most immersing galleries I have ever been to. The exhibits are incredibly well done, and there is a wide variety of art, from paintings dating back over 100 years to funky modern art, commentating on the social issues of today. And the best part is that a lot of these exhibits are completely free; we didn’t pay for any of the paid exhibits and still managed to spend hours here.
Mountain Goat Brewery
If you walk back across the Yarra River to the center of the CBD, you can hop on board the 48 tram at Town Hall/Collins Street and ride to Yarra Boulevard, on the eastern edge of the city, home to Mountain Goat Brewery and one of the best selections of craft beers in Melbourne. The vibes are relaxed and hipster, and a flight (or a paddle) is reasonably priced, as are their tasty pizzas. Meredith and I got to sample the pizza for free, in fact, because we are garbage human beings and devoured an almost full pizza that had been abandoned by the people who had occupied our table before us. Disgusting, or resourceful? You can decide. But maybe buy your own pizza if you’re hungry for dinner.
If you’re interested in planning a visit, keep in mind that Mountain Goat is only open in the evenings on Wednesday and Friday and in the afternoon on Sunday.
Theater
Something that surprised me a bit about Melbourne is how incredibly artsy it is. The creative vibes are palpable, and, despite being completely uncreative myself, I appreciate that sort of atmosphere. It gives a city character, charm, and depth. Melbourne is packed with theaters, with shows ranging from comedy to musicals, so there is bound to be something available that will tickle your fancy.
Day 2
Readings Carlton
I read somewhere that Readings Carlton is considered (by whom, I have no idea) to be the best bookstore in the entire world. I was skeptical, especially considering my proclivity for loitering in bookstores just because I like the fresh smell of books, and unfortunately the bookstore was being renovated during our visit, so we had to go to the popup version across the street instead. This gave me flashbacks to the time I was in Rome and robbed of the opportunity to throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain over my shoulder because the Trevi Fountain was also under construction at the time, and I am clearly still not over it.
The bookstore is nice, and it does have a ton of variety. I think another draw is the neighborhood itself, which feels more like a laid-back small town, far less crowded than central Melbourne, filled with coffee shops and restaurants and boutiques. Grabbing a coffee in Carlton and perusing the shelves of Readings made for a tranquil and relaxing morning.
Melbourne Museum & Carlton Gardens
The Melbourne Museum is a natural and cultural history museum that offers a great opportunity to learn more about Australia, the Aboriginals, and the city of Melbourne. It is also the largest museum in the southern hemisphere, so you’ll need to carve out at least a few hours to explore it (trust me, it’ll be well worth the 15 AUD admission price). The museum is located in Carlton Gardens, another one of Melbourne’s plentiful, well-maintained green spaces.
Lord of the Fries
Technically serving chips (don’t get me started on how confusing the chips vs fries vs crisps discussion is and why America insists on being the odd man out at all times), Lord of the Fries is a Melbourne-based fast food restaurant that everyone needs to visit at least once in their lifetime. While LOTF also offers burgers and hot dogs, their fries are their claim to fame and for good reason (believe me). Each topping option is inspired by a different country, including vegan mayo, inspired by Belgium, barbecue sauce, inspired by America, and cheesy gravy, my personal favorite, inspired by French Canada’s poutine.
Brighton Beach bathing boxes
No trip to Melbourne, no matter how short, would be complete without a visit to the Brighton Beach bathing boxes. They are ICONIC. From Flinders Street Railway Station, you can take the train towards Sandringham and be just steps from the beach within 20 minutes. On a chilly, overcast day, the beach wasn’t too crowded and the boxes were ours to delight in.
State Library of Victoria
If you’re interested in seeing Australia’s oldest public library and admiring some beautiful architecture while disturbing annoyed university students who are just trying to study for their next exam, the State Library of Victoria is the spot for you.
Union Electric
If you walk near Chinatown and turn into the alley of Heffernan Lane, you’ll come across Union Electric. Given its elusive nature, we were some of the only people there, and almost had the entire rooftop to ourselves (although I’m pretty sure it was because it was too cold for most Australians). The bar is funky and adorable, with an exposed brick bar on the first level and a rooftop bar directly above, specializing in gin cocktails but also offering a selection of beer and wine. We were definitely not cool enough to be here, but we tried our best.
Chinatown
After drinks, head downstairs to Chinatown, one of the most amazing options for food in the entire city. Walking through the narrow street and offshoot alleys, the smells of Asian cuisine engulfs you, and you’re overwhelmed by the options. We got soup and dumplings at one of the many Chinese restaurants, and left the brightly lit neighborhood full and happy.
Melbourne was our very first city in Australia, and it set the bar high. We ate too much and drank too much and enjoyed the beauty of the riverside metropolis. And despite what you might hear, it turns out that literally any city can be a fantastic tourist destination, if you know where to look.
