The Ultimate 3 Day Tasmania Road Trip Itinerary

To be honest, when my sister and I were first laying the groundwork for our big trip to Australia, Tasmania wasn’t even on our radar. I am ashamed to admit that we actually thought it was a different country entirely. It wasn’t until we were actually throwing together a loose itinerary and planning our excursions that I revisited the idea of the tiny island 240 kilometers south of mainland Australia, which, it turns out, is actually Australia’s southernmost state. Oh.

Upon a quick consultation with Meredith and a cursory glance at ticket prices, we were officially planning our stay in Australia’s most exotic destination. And it does seem more exotic, somehow, that sparsely populated, mountainous, isolated island, roughly the size of Ireland, often overlooked by travelers anxious to experience the renown of Sydney or the night life of the Gold Coast.

Tasmania is dreamy, it is scenic, it is full of opportunities for adventure. The air quality is some of the best on the entire planet because of the state’s dedication to maintaining its World Heritage-worthy wilderness. And it is slow-paced, so you’ll fit right in if you want to explore the island leisurely. However, if you only have a short amount of time, here is my best advice for seeing all the best parts of this enchanting state.

Getting Around

Depending on your ability to analyze context clues, you can probably guess that the best way of getting around Tasmania, by far, is via car (hence the post title, The Ultimate Tasmania Road Trip). Renting a car is incredibly affordable right from the Hobart Airport, ranging from $30 to $50 US per day, depending on what size car you get and how early you make your booking.

For some reason, despite paying for a compact car, the Hobart Airport decided to gift me an upgrade: a giant, non-maneuverable white SUV, the dashboard over which I could barely see. This is exactly what happened when I rented a car in Ireland; the clerk flashed a megawatt smile as he handed me the keys to what I figured was going to be my grisly demise, so pleased that he was able to do some good for a customer. SUVs are not good. SUVs with a steering wheel on the wrong side trying to navigate the narrowest roads known to man are not good. I was terrified, especially knowing that this time, I had precious cargo in the form of a 22-year-old sister. But, naturally, I smiled, thanked the clerk for his generosity, and prayed that our untimely deaths-by-car-flipping were not forthcoming.

Obviously, we survived, as I am not typing this from beyond the grave. If I can navigate the roads of Tasmania without incident, I who crashed my car within months of getting my driver’s license 10 years ago, I’m convinced that anyone can do it.

Day 1 – Hobart

Drive up Mount Wellington for the sunrise

Mount Wellington is the first thing to come up when you Google “what to do in Hobart,” and super touristy spots are not necessarily high on my list when I visit a new place. But the thing about Tasmania in general is that it just isn’t that touristy. Elbowing foreigners in crowds in an attempt to get a great photo just doesn’t happen. You walk through the center of Hobart (or Hofart, as we affectionately referred to it) and it almost feels like home.

We were in Tasmania in May, which is the pioneering month of Australia’s backwards winter. It was frigid, which probably helped to drive tourists away, so we weren’t complaining. We woke before the sun on our first day in Hobart, climbing, with effort, into the seats of what had to be the tallest SUV in the state, and headed up towards the peak of Mount Wellington.

Halfway up, the road was blocked due to ice, and we figured it was probably closed for the season. We were disappointed, but we still stood at the side of the road, admiring the view as the sun peered over the horizon.

We were about to get back in the car and drive back down the mountain when a couple sped by us in their cute, compact, in-no-danger-of-flipping-over car, up the mountain road. Meredith and I looked at each other, figuring they’d see the road closure and be back within minutes. We waited and waited, took a few more photos of us looking off into the distance pensively, and the couple had yet to return. We ran to our big rig, hauled ourselves inside, and drove up the mountain, rejoicing when we saw the road had opened as the world brightened.

And thank Jesus we waited. Despite gale force winds that bit at our cheeks and knotted our hair, the view from the top of the mountain was the most breath-taking view I have ever seen in my entire life. That’s a bold statement, I realize, but I am confident in its sincerity. Unless it is seriously icy, do not, under any circumstances, miss the sunrise from this spot. It was like heaven.

Breakfast at Jackman and McRoss

If you want to grab a bite at a place that is popular with locals, Jackman and McRoss is the place. A bakery offering a wide variety of breads, pastries, and hot drinks, it turned out to be the perfect place to relax and get a taste of the mellow and laid-back lifestyle enjoyed by the people of Hobart. Meredith and I split this pastry, called a “scroll,” sat by the window, and people watched away an hour.

MONA (Museum of Old and New Art)

I was a bit hesitant about MONA, considering my apprehension when it comes to ultra modern art (and, frankly, my inability to understand it), and the fact that the museum came with a $28 AUS price tag. Having lived in DC for almost two years, the land of free museums, I generally avoid museums with entry fees, but all the hype led us to believe that MONA was too good to pass up.

And actually, it was. It was just so damn weird. There was an exhibit made up solely of over 70 sculpted vaginas, there were traditional paintings, interactive exhibits, an entire room with lights that flickered in time with your heart beat. There was a room with a hundred screens of people clad in 80s garb singing Madonna in unison, there was art from Ancient Egypt. Some of the exhibits made me feel sick to my stomach. It was a full-body experience, and I would implore anyone not to miss it for the world (and to set aside at least a few hours to enjoy the museum to its fullest). The MONA is truly one of a kind. And the view from its terrace is nice, too.

Scallop pies at Salamanca Market

If possible, try to plan your trip so that you’re staying in Hobart on a Saturday. This is the only day that the stalls of Salamanca Market are open for business, selling everything from fresh produce to Tasmanian-made chocolates, handmade clothing and jewelry, and, most importantly, scallop pies.

Smith’s Pies has been making pies every Saturday for over 35 years, offering fresh juicy scallops in a flaky puff pastry crust. As the biggest seafood lover in my life, my sister almost orgasmed over this pie. It’s what Salamanca is known for, so be sure to get your little mitts on one.

Walk along the water

Hobart’s waterfront is absolutely beautiful, especially down at Battery Point, the city’s oldest suburb and home to many extravagant houses and apartment blocks. Talk about bougie. Because Hobart is such a small city, it is unlikely that there will be many people walking the streets, so hanging out down at the water makes for a very peaceful afternoon.

Flights at Cascade Brewing

Meredith and I aren’t ones to miss a good brewery, so it is only natural that we tracked down the one brewery in all of Tasmania and set up shop. Cascade was actually established in 1824, making it the oldest continually operating brewery in Australia.

When you first arrive, the building looms over you, soaring into the clouds like an old, gigantic, haunted factory. Across the street is Cascade’s brewpub, where you can sit inside or on the patio and enjoy a selection of their beers. They consider themselves to be a pioneer of the craft beer renaissance, so you can’t miss their fruity, barrel-aged Northwest Sour Ale during your visit. Many of the beers they offer are only available on the island of Tasmania.

If you’re lucky, the bartenders will host a beer pouring competition, where you get to test your pouring skills. I will tell you a lot of people embarrassed themselves as they walked away with a glass of one part beer and 8 parts foam, wearing sheepish, shit-eating grins on their faces.

Day 2 – Freycinet National Park

Breakfast at the Machine Laundry Cafe

Meredith and I, despite being the least hipster-like human beings on the planet, appreciate novel and unconventional concepts, especially when it comes to our dining experiences. When we heard about the Machine Laundry Cafe, where people bring their dirty clothing to launder at one of their many machines, and then meander over to the dining room for a hearty breakfast, we knew we had to go. Though a little pricey, we found our meals to be more than worth it. Especially that bacon. OH BOY.

Ice cream at the Pondering Frog Cafe

We ran across the Pondering Frog Cafe purely by chance; it sat on the side of the road between Hobart and the Freycinet Peninsula and the friendly looking frog was enough to make me slam on the brakes and swerve into its deserted parking lot. The staff was almost too friendly, and we enjoyed a cold snack as a way to break the drive up the eastern coast of the island in half.

Explore Freycinet

Freycinet National Park is a 125 kilometer and 3 hour drive from downtown Hobart, and as Tasmania’s first national park, it earns its place as my favorite place in the state. The park consists of stretches of the pink granite peaks that make up the Hazard Mountains, bright blue bays in secluded coves, and white sand beaches, as well as tons of hiking trails of varying lengths and difficulties. Entry into the park for a 24 hour pass is $24 per vehicle. Coles Bay is a small town right outside of the park’s limits that is a great place to base yourself out of for the night after a long day of exploring.

Here are some of our favorite spots in the park, but the visitor center will provide you with a map and help point you to your own favorites.

Honeymoon Bay

Honeymoon Bay is part of Coles Bay, and it is sequestered near the front of the park. It is popular for picnicking and snorkeling, but we just sat there and enjoyed the gorgeous views over the granite mountains and the quiet and solitude that came with it.

Wineglass Bay

Wineglass Bay is perhaps Freycinet’s most well-known landmark, as it was rated among the world’s ten most beautiful beaches, and for good reason. It is ridiculously blue and perfectly framed by the rippling summits in the distance. I am an obsessive freak when it comes to nature. There are several different hikes that will allow you access to this view:

1. The Wineglass Bay Lookout:
   Distance: 3 kilometers
   Time: 1 – 1.5 hours from the Wineglass Bay Car Park and back
   Though the hike is a little steep in some places, it is the least strenuous of all the climbs around this particular bay. Meredith and I still ended up ripping off our sweatshirts halfway through as sweat poured down our backs, but we are naturally sweaty people. The view is more than worth getting a little stinky.
2. Hazards Beach:
   Distance: 11 kilometers
   Time: 4 – 5 hours from the Wineglass Bay Car Park and back
   This circuit takes you through a lush forest, offering a good view of other Freycinet bays, and then spits you out on Hazards Beach, which will lead you right to the turquoise water of Wineglass Bay. You’ll then climb up to the Wineglass Bay Lookout and head back down to the car park from there.
3. Mount Amos:
   Distance: 4 kilometers
   Time: 3 hours from the Wineglass Bay Car Park and back
   This trek is not for the faint-hearted, as it requires a lot of scrambling and can be slippery and treacherous in wet conditions, but with some strong will and strong biceps, you will be treated to a stunning bird’s eye view of the bay. Mount Amos is the highest peak in the Hazards, and there is no better place to see the park, as long as you have some decent hiking shoes with you.

Day 3 – Cradle Mountain National Park

Cataract Gorge Reserve

Cataract Gorge Reserve is a naturally formed river gorge that is literally right outside the city of Launceston. I would recommend staying in Cole’s Bay outside of Freycinet the night before, or driving into Launceston and staying there overnight instead for quick access to your next destination.

There are several walking trails, the world’s longest single-span chair lift, and a suspension bridge over the gorge. Meredith and I were pleasantly surprised by its unassuming beauty. We were also surprised at the number of peacocks just walking around through the park casually, as if gigantic peacocks wandering wild right next to the public toilets is totally normal and not at all shocking for visitors who have never seen a peacock up close, especially strolling through Baltimore, Maryland, USA.

See the Big Tasmanian Devil at Trowunna Wildlife Park

Like many people, I’m sure, all I knew about Tasmania was what I saw on Looney Tunes growing up. There was a Tasmanian Devil who spun around like a tornado and a roadrunner and lots of anvils falling from the sky. Something like that. I didn’t even know Tasmanian devils were real until semi-recently, I am sorry to even admit. And at first I figured they were these gargantuan, horrifying monsters who will swirl you into next Tuesday.

Well, they are certainly not gargantuan. They are actually almost cute. They’re about the size and shape of my black chihuahua Stella, only they’re marsupials, have more teeth and stronger jaws, and prey on live wombats, devouring every last scrap of carcass in their wake.

Tasmanian devils have been woefully misunderstood. In the early 1900s, they were seen as a threat to livestock and hunted, which caused them to become endangered and protected. It wasn’t until the 1940s that scientists concluded that the original concerns that the devils were a vicious threat was mostly overestimated.

Between Cataract Gorge Reserve and Cradle Mountain National Park is Trowunna Wildlife Park, an 82 acre sanctuary for Tasmania’s devils (which are now only found on the island of Tasmania). They do great work rehabilitating injured animals and providing a safe place for the endangered devils, and it is worth a quick tour if you have the time. Plus, the park is home to one of Tasmania’s only “big things,” a series of large sculptures all over Australia that have become a cult phenomenon over the years, as well as the catalyst for road trips through the country.

Explore Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park

Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park is another beauty that shouldn’t be missed. It is part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Site, and is rich with ancient rainforest and glacial lakes. If I am honest, the drive is a bit of a bitch, with winding mountain roads and endless blind curves that, somehow, oncoming large trucks are always taking at the exact same time you are. You also have to be cautious as the roads run through remote wilderness, and you want to avoid accidentally turning an adorable pademelon into bloody roadkill.

The entry fee for Cradle Mountain is $16.50 per adult, which is good for a 24 hour pass. Passes can be picked up at the visitor center at the entrance of the park.

Dove Lake

If you want an easy day walk that offers incredible views of the iconic towering Cradle Mountain itself, the Dove Lake circuit is the perfect option. You can drive right up to the lake and park in the car park before venturing off. It was absolutely freezing the day we were there, but it didn’t stop us from spending several hours and six kilometers circling the lake. This hike is not strenuous in the slightest, but they recommend that you bring all sorts of hiking gear (think hiking sticks, hiking boots, rain gear, food and water). We wore sneakers and did just fine without any freeze dried backpacking meals (we did have a packet of hickory smoked almonds, which tasted so freakishly and nauseatingly meaty that they made us queasy and we ended up shoving them into the bottom of our bag until we got to New Zealand).

The walk around Dove Lake is among Tasmania’s “60 Great Short Walks,” and it includes a venture through the tranquil Ballroom Forest and past the adorable, frequently photographed boat house. We were greeted by fog and clouds, but near the end, the skies opened up and we were treated to a really pleasant sunset. This park was a highlight, not only of Tasmania, but of our time in Australia.

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Tasmania is probably one of the most unique places I’ve ever gotten the chance to visit. It is secluded, laid-back, and brimming with impossibly beautiful landscapes filled with rare plants and animals, many of which are native only to the tiny island state. If you’re planning a trip to Australia and excluding at least a few days in Taz, you’re only robbing yourself of an opportunity for a once-in-a-lifetime road trip. Just be sure to forego the hickory smoked almonds.