Let’s face it. Traveling isn’t perfect fun all the time, despite what Instagram might lead you to believe. Most people are not hiking up mountains or through the woods or across the desert in long, flowing dresses, their blonde hair blowing flawlessly in the wind.
Sometimes you find yourself sweaty, exhausted, in the same underwear as yesterday because you didn’t get the chance to do your laundry, and on the verge of a mental breakdown when you find out that your flight has been delayed another three hours and you have to continue to sit on the floor because there are no seats available. Yes, I am describing myself in Ho Chi Minh’s airport, and yes, I am probably more prone to mental breakdowns than the average person.
The point is, although traveling the world is the most incredible thing money can buy, it isn’t always sunshine and rainbows. Not every little thing can get you that perfect Instagrammable moment that everyone so desperately craves. But what if I told you that, nestled in the heart of Costa Rica, is a town that is literally nothing BUT sunshine and rainbows? Would that pique your interest? I BETCHA IT WOULD!
Enter Zarcero, a town of less than 5,000 but packed to the brim with more personality and color than even some of the largest cities in the world. Color has, and always will be, something that excites me. In high school I painted my walls bright green and lavender. Hot pink lipstick speaks to my soul. I assign colors to music, seasons, feelings. Color makes the world a brighter place, not just visually, but spiritually. And nothing brightened my mood like hopping off the bus and walking into the strange and magical land of Zarcero.
This tiny city is situated in the mountains about halfway between San José and La Fortuna. It lies in a brisk agricultural area and its principle form of income is from organic and dairy farming. It the perfect spot to pull over, stretch your legs out, eat some cheese, and dust off your camera. Attempting to capture the city on film was the first thing I did as I emerged into the sunlight, right after my mom and I hustled to the restroom to pee. Classic. Hydration dedication.
Iglesia de San Rafael
The obvious focal point, Iglesia de San Rafael is a bright and imposing church that towers above the rest of the town. I am not a religious person and never have been, but churches are one of my favorite things to visit whenever I go somewhere new. This world is filled with some talented-ass architects, and the grandeur and innovation of so many churchs’ craftsmanship is enough to keep me coming back for more. Zarcero’s church is no exception.
The church, which was built in 1895, appears to be made of brick on the outside, but it is actually constructed with metal, with the columns painted to appear made of marble. Tricky tricky. The inside is full of murals and stained glass, and it is worth taking a few minutes to go inside, sit down, and marvel at this work of art. Because that’s what churches are. Religious affiliations aside, churches are works of art.
Parque Francisco Alvarado
Right in front of the church is Parque Francisco Alvarado, a park by name, but a wholly unique experience in actuality. It has been maintained by the same person for over 50 years, Evangelista Blanco, who was first commissioned by the Municipality of Zarcero to plant a garden in front of the church in 1964. A simple enough job, but maybe a little too simple.
Wanting to spice things up a bit, Evangelista scrapped the idea of a same ole, boring vanilla garden and instead planted some cypress trees and whipped out his pruning shears (if that’s what they’re even called). Well, he had to wait a few years for the trees to grow, but then he most certainly created something really exceptional.
To this day, Evangelista continues to clip and expand the topiary garden to keep it looking fresh. Zarcero would not be the same without him and his tenacious passion for his life’s work.
I’ve heard people compare this park to something out of Alice in Wonderland over and over, but I think the whole town is more akin to Edward Scissorhands: pastels everywhere, funky topiary sculptures, a jovial yet almost eerie vibe.
It’s not just the creatively crafted trees shaped like ducks, or dinosaurs, or weird little men. It is the bright rooftops, the pink and blue church, the splash of yellow, green, turquoise on the walls of houses. There is not a dull corner of this entire city, and you’ll find a new and exciting photo opportunity everywhere you turn, and a sense of tranquility that will make you never want to leave.
Traveling’s not all roses, but there are some serious gems just waiting to be discovered that more than make up for some of the discomforts and the inconveniences. As someone who traveled very little in her childhood, I long to see the big destinations as much as the next cliche tourist. I have sought out the Eiffel Tower, Halong Bay, Parc Güell, and fangirled over each, taking photos and excitedly sending them to my mom. All those places are incredible. There’s a reason they’re so famous and why people flock to them each and every day. But every once in a while, it is even more fulfilling to avoid the crowds and try something a little bit different. Zarcero is probably just what you’ve been looking for.
Ugly blue tent and all.
