What do you think of when you think of Iceland? Roaring waterfalls? Geothermal springs? Gigantic, sharp glaciers? Ice?? Yes, that is basically a majority of the country. In fact, most of the country is not even inhabited by people. One third of the total Icelandic population (which, by the way, is about 4% the size of New York City’s population…GOOD LORD) resides in its capital city, Reykjavik, located on the southeast shore of the tiny country. I’m sure Reykjavik and the Icelandic people are not the first things you think of when considering this small island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, but you should.
To be completely honest, I had no idea what to expect when I arrived in Iceland in early December, completely on my own, with no real plans and definitely no gloves (CURSES. Who forgets to bring gloves to ICEland? Seriously). The thought that people actually live in Iceland was bizarre to me. It is isolated, cold, dark 80% of the winter months, and a completely foreign, mystical land of which I had little understanding. This has got to be a weird-ass place, right?
Yes, it is. But in a good way.
The Icelandic people are kind, happy, and patient with visitors, all of them speaking English and no one annoyed with you for asking for a translation of the Icelandic menu. They are quiet, generally keep to themselves and mind their business, and are laid back about pretty much everything, probably partially owing to the fact that there is almost no difference between the upper, middle, and lower classes in Iceland. Lack of tension between classes also contributes to the fact that it has one of the lowest violent crime rates in the world. I went to a café one afternoon and sat next to a couple who had left their baby outside while they grabbed a bite to eat. THE BABY WAS JUST CHILLING OUTSIDE BUNDLED IN HIS LITTLE BABY CARRIAGE. Name one major city in the United States where a responsible parent would feel comfortable doing that (hint: there isn’t one).
Browse the best deals on hotels in Reykjavik here!
Although I was warned by various people about going to Iceland in the middle of winter, the country has so much to offer a brave winter traveler, and Reykjavik in particular is brimming with so many incredible things to do and to see. Don’t forget to give the northernmost capital city in the world (you like that fun fact I slipped on in there?) a little bit of your time when you visit Iceland, because though it is not a big city, there is more than enough to keep you occupied.
Stuff to See
Sun Voyager
Basically just one giant fantastic photo opportunity. Besides the fact that the sea and Mount Esja in the background are absolutely stunning, this really cool sculpture, originally was designed to resemble a dream boat and ode to the sun, is an impressive and well-known icon of Reykjavik. Its gorgeous backdrop is just an added bonus.
Hallgrímskirkja
Perhaps one of Reykjavik’s most famous landmarks, and the largest church in all of Iceland, I was actually at a loss for words when I first saw this massive structure (not that I needed words since it was 6 am, everyone was asleep in their warm beds, and I was completely and utterly alone waiting for the hostel to be ready for check-in). You can see this church, which was designed to resemble a geyser, basically throughout all of Reykjavik, and for about $8 you can get a ticket to take the elevator to the top for the city’s best overlook (and since it’s wintertime, the wait to get up is only a couple of minutes).
Old Harbor
I love Old Harbor because it gives you a glimpse into the very prominent fishing and boating culture of the city. This is where you can sign up to hop on a boat and go whale watching, or sit down and get a steaming bowl of lobster soup, or admire the views out over the bay. Also, if you’re trying to save some money or don’t have time to drop by the Viking Maritime Museum, there are lots of signs along the harbor detailing the maritime history of the city that you can peruse at your own pace.
Bókin Bookstore
I am biased because I am a sucker for bookstores, especially unique, used bookstores like this one, but if you find yourself straying away from the touristy part of town, drop into Bókin. Like a lot of places in this city, it is semi-organized chaos, books stacked floor to ceiling and overflowing out of the bookshelves, with foreign literature up front (for the most part) and each book costing only a couple of dollars.
Stuff to Do
Relax at Blue Lagoon
So technically Blue Lagoon is not within Reykjavik’s city limits; it is about a 30 minute drive outside of the city, and travelers often visit it on their way to or fro the airport, since it is right between Keflavik and the city. (This is something I was unaware of, and I really fcked up my Blue Lagoon experience, but more on that later).
Originally, back in the 1970s, a pool of waste water formed near the geothermal plant Svartsengi, and about five years later, people learned of its “healing powers,” stemming from the fact that the water is rich in minerals such as sulfur and silica, and started bathing in the water. In the early 1990s, Blue Lagoon was formalized as a public bath, and since then several companies have taken mud from the lagoon and created lines of cosmetic products. Supposedly, this stuff is great for lots of different skin conditions. I was drawn to the idea because the thought of soaking my 100-year-old ankle and knee joints sounded like heaven, and because it is famous and beautiful and everyone goes when they go to Iceland.
There is some debate among the travel community about whether or not Blue Lagoon is worth its steep price tag for entry (40€ minimum), as there are cheaper baths all throughout the city of Reykjavik, but there is no denying that Blue Lagoon is the nicest. It is a steamy wonderland. My suggestion (as I gleaned from poorly planned experience, as you can see in my post here about all my lessons learned visiting Iceland in the wintertime) is to remember that you MUST book in advance, and when they say advance, they don’t mean two days in advance. They mean at least a week. Get a slot in the morning, as those fill up most quickly, and you will be able to enjoy Blue Lagoon in all its day-time glory, without the rush of security telling you to evacuate the bath as they are closing now (ugh. Going at night is just as relaxing, don’t get me wrong, but going in the morning guarantees that no one is going to rush your ass outta there). Take advantage of an early-morning arrival in Iceland, stop here on the way into Reykjavik, and enjoy the sunrise from the warm water. This is a unique geothermal experience that you don’t find all over the world, so Blue Lagoon is a worthwhile stop to add to your itinerary.
Shop at Kolaportid Flea Market
Flea markets are one of the coolest ways to interact with and learn about another culture, and Kolaportid is Iceland’s only flea market. It is completely indoors, perfect for a winter afternoon, and open only on the weekends. You can come here to buy all kinds of things, from books and antiques to Icelandic wool and shark meat. Just remember to bring a fistful of cash, because unlike pretty much everywhere else in Iceland, a lot of the merchants do not accept credit.
See a show at Harpa
I am obsessed with how funky and modern Reykjavik is in general, and Harpa is no exception. It is a concert hall that offers a ton of different operas, symphonies, comedy shows, as well as a virtual reality exhibition of Björk’s music (Björk is originally from Iceland, for anyone who has been living under a really heavy rock). There are also a couple shops inside, and I think it’s worth a visit just to see the awesome architecture of the different colored glass panels up close and personal.
This chihuahua sitting on the counter of one of Harpa’s gift shops was by far my favorite animal I ran into while in Iceland. MY HEART!
Go out on Laugavegur Street
Laugavegur Street is the main shopping street in Reykjavik, extending from west to east and full of shops, hotels, restaurants, and people. For anyone fiending for good nightlife, Laugavegur Street is your guy. And despite the fact that most places close relatively early in Reykjavik, the nightlife is alive and well until the wee hours of the morning. You’re not going to find any crazy clubs, but a lot of the cafés by day turn into lively bars at night, and there are always a lot of people around, especially on the weekends.
Meander Hljómskálagarðurinn
This is one of my favorite spots in the entire city, which I wandered into on my last day in Iceland. The soft winter lighting makes the view warm and welcoming, and there are sculptures of important Icelandic historical figures scattered throughout the park. In the wintertime, especially in the morning, there is almost no one else there, and it is such a peaceful way to enjoy the quiet sunrise. Also, there are ducks. Who knew ducks are so down with 30 degree temperatures?
Visit the Penis Museum
As dirty as it sounds (apologies to my grandmother, who is one of my blog’s biggest fans), I was incredibly excited to visit the Iceland Phallological Museum in the weeks leading up to my trip. It is the largest collection of penises in the world, and it is world famous for its unique and somewhat disgusting subject matter. Very fitting in a unique city that has no qualms about sex or nudity of any kind (just peek inside the locker room at any public bath; everyone is showering naked together in the same room. I mean peek in the least perverse way possible. Sorry).
Turns out, this museum was founded by a former teacher who became fascinated with penises after he was given a cattle whip made out of a bull’s penis as a child. For 1500 krona, which is about $13, you gain entrance into the museum, as well as a booklet that details everything about each of the specimens in the exhibits. In all, there are 280 specimens from almost 100 species of animals, including whales, dolphins, bulls, reindeer, horses, goats, humans, and Icelandic elves (this one, though, is questionable. Apparently a surprisingly high percentage of the Icelandic population believes that elves live inside volcanic rock throughout the country). The largest one, which you notice right away when you walk in, is in a jar in the middle of the floor, previously belonging to an adult sperm whale, his penis measuring 170 CENTIMETERS. That is five inches taller than me. This penis is taller than me. A fully-grown adult human. I guess it’s called a sperm whale for a reason.
After exploring every nook and cranny of this museum, I ended up leaving (but not before snagging a penis-adorned shot glass for my corrupted little sister) feeling just a little bit nauseated. I am more squeamish than I like to think. This museum is not for the weak-willed. There is a penis previously belonging to a 90-year-old man floating in a jar, still attached to hairy, hairy testicles (though to the museum’s credit, they are currently on the hunt for a younger, bigger human penis to replace it). Even the lampshades were made of boy parts (fuzzy bull scrotums, to be exact. Oh my god I am gagging).
Despite the fact that I was gulping in the fresh air like my life depended on it after leaving the museum, I have to say that it was a really, really interesting experience, and one of my very favorites in all of Reykjavik.
Over the course of my short trip to Iceland, I probably spent about a day and a half total exploring the capital city. It is a small city, so fitting all of my favorite things into a day or two is relatively easy. I love Reykjavik, and I am almost certain that you will (or do!) too.
