I would never, not in this lifetime or the next, consider myself a foodie. What does that even mean anyway? Wikipedia defines foodie as “a person who has an ardent or refined interest in food and alcoholic beverages…seek[ing] new food experiences as a hobby,” but Urban Dictionary defines it as “a douchebag who likes food.”
I am no snob when it comes to food. My pallet consists of scrambled eggs, macaroni and cheese from the box, and buttered toast (trust me, I’ve tried cooking something more extravagant, but it never tastes quite as good as the something that would have taken me two fewer hours to put together). I’ve seen enough episodes of Top Chef to know that self-proclaimed “foodies,” those who boast about their rigorously developed pallet and propensity for refinement, are indeed the height of douchebaggery and I am proud to not assign myself into the same pigeonhole as them.
That being said, I enjoy food. I love food. If there is an opportunity to try a new food, I eat that food even when I’m not hungry (this happens probably way too often to maintain that elusive trim waistline). So naturally I was elated to discover New Orleans, the deep south’s crowning jewel and food-lover’s paradise (foodies may even like it here, too).
This city is famous for its cuisine, drawing influences from its history rooted in French, African, and American cultures. A surprising number of beloved dishes were founded by immigrants who settled in New Orleans hundreds of years ago. You’ll find a little soulful south, a little spicy Cajun, a little savory Creole. There was not a food I ate here and did not like.
Gumbo
What it is: A savory stew with meat or shellfish and the Holy Trinity of vegetables (celery, bell peppers, and onions). It also includes filé powder and okra for thickening and is served over white rice. The dish originated in New Orleans in the 1700s.
Where to get it: Creole Carre. This restaurant is relatively new and is located on Bourbon Street, so if you can get a balcony table, you’ll get to oversee Nola’s craziest street while you eat. Please also note that the New Orleans people love their gumbo and you can get it literally anywhere you look.
How much you’ll pay: A bowl of Louisiana seafood gumbo is $13 and a bowl of chicken and andouille sausage gumbo goes for $12. Both authentic and delicious.
Jambalaya
What it is: Jambalaya is another Creole dish originating in Louisiana but also having Spanish and French influence (think paella). It usually consists of sausage, shrimp, crawfish, and vegetables, which are sautéed with rice and seasonings.
Where to get it: Coop’s Place on Frenchman Street. It is open late in case you’re fiending for a late-night snack after hours of listening to live jazz music and drinking Louisiana beer. Unfortunately I learned the hard way that I am too old for partying when I took a swig of whisky right after inhaling my jambalaya and promptly vomited everything I had just eaten. Still though, jambalaya was my favorite dish in all of New Orleans, at least the first time I got to taste it.
How much you’ll pay: Coop’s has rabbit and sausage jambalaya for $8.95, and jambalaya supreme, including rabbit, sausage, shrimp, crawfish, and tasso, for $9.95.
Muffuletta
What it is: A sandwich originating among Italian immigrants in New Orleans, made with a round muffuletta loaf, layers of Italian meats, mozzarella, and provolone. It also is topped with an olive salad consisting of olives, vegetables, oregano, garlic, and olive oil.
Where to get it: Central Grocery and Deli, home of the original muffuletta and smack in the middle of the French Quarter.
How much you’ll pay: An entire muffuletta sandwich will put you out $18.50, but since they are so massive, they also sell halves which go for only $9.95.
Po’ Boys
What it is: A traditional sandwich from Louisiana consisting of either roast beef or some kind of fried seafood, most often shrimp or crawfish. They are also HUGE AS SHIT so prepare for a few leftovers. Neither I nor my friend Alyssa was able to finish our entire sandwich, and that is saying something (I don’t mean to brag, but I can eat an entire box of Kraft family-sized macaroni and cheese in one sitting).
Where to get it: Gene’s Po’ Boys, an unassuming pink restaurant that attracts tons of excited, paying customers. These may be the best po’ boys in town, as the woman who hosted us from Airbnb is a Nola native and recommended Gene’s to us as her favorite.
How much you’ll pay: Roast beef po’ boys are $9.25 and shrimp po’ boys are $10.95.
Crawfish
What it is: Crawfish, obviously. I was a little wary of this whole idea since the way they present it to you is creepy as hell, eyes intact and beady and black, antennae long and spindly. They are prepared by boiling the live crawfish and adding spicy seasoning.
Where to get it: We just happened to stumble into Turtle Bay, which is on Frenchman Street (the best street in New Orleans, if you’re askin’ me), a really chill pub with an outdoor courtyard and a surprisingly stellar crawfish boil on the weekends. I took me about 10 minutes of hunting inside of myself for the will to so much as touch them, but once I finally found it, I wondered why I have steered away from these darlings for 25 whole years.
How much you’ll pay: This entire plate (platter? small table?) of food was only $12. Count me the heck in!
Oysters Rockefeller
What it is: These oysters are topped with green herbs, butter, and bread crumbs, then baked or broiled. In case you haven’t noticed a pattern quite yet, these babies were also created originally in none other than New Orleans, Louisiana, USA.
Where to get it: Where else would be appropriate but the exact site of their founding, Antoine’s? Antoine’s is the oldest family-owned restaurant in the country, on its 5th generation owner and CEO. It is also relatively famous, having been featured in movies and books and having hosted several US presidents and Pope John Paul II.
How much you’ll pay: $15. This restaurant also offers 25 cent cocktails, if you are so inclined (sounds somewhat dangerous to me, but how can you turn that kind of offer down?).
Alligator (!!)
What it is: Technically alligator jerky, a big slab of meat jammed onto a stick. It tastes a lot like regular jerky, but a little fattier (i.e. greasy but packed with juicy, savory FLAVOR).
Where to get it: The French Market, “where locals have been shopping since 1791” (according to their banner). It began as a Native American trading post and today spans six blocks along the Mississippi River, full of stalls selling everything from fish to produce to souvenirs to, YEP, alligator meat. And yes, I did find it creepy and somewhat questionable, but I did it anyway in an effort to be adventurous and cool.
How much you’ll pay: $6
Fried Chicken
What it is: SELF EXPLANATORY. No one goes to the south of the good ole USofA and bypasses fried chicken (except vegetarians I presume? A lifestyle I cannot and shall not comprehend until the day I die).
Where to get it: Willie Mae’s Scotch House, a restaurant and bar famous for the last 60 years for its soul food and down-home atmosphere. It also has the “best fried chicken in the country,” which is saying something, but it would make sense that wherever the best fried chicken is would be in the south.
How much you’ll pay: $10 for 3 pieces and a soul food side, options including mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, peas, and red beans.
Beignets
What it is: The most delicious pastry you will ever put in your mouth. A French fritter made from deep-fried choux dough and drowned in powdered sugar. Heaven. Take your pick. Also, they are pronounced “ben-yays” not “ben-yets” so don’t embarrass yourself when discussing them in public (…definitely not speaking from personal experience or anything, no way).
Where to get it: Cafe du Monde, the world-famous open-air coffee café located in the French Quarter. It has been depicted endlessly in film, novels, and television, and is a renowned landmark of the city. Fair warning: Cafe du Monde’s beignets are more popular than denim in the 90s, so there will probably be a bit of wait time, even if you’re getting a couple treats to go. Get them anyway.
How much you’ll pay: $3 for a bag of 3 beignets. A bargain!
Pralines
What it is: A creamy pecan candy that was actually one of the earliest street foods in the country, a way for emancipated black women to make a living long before the civil rights movement. I don’t even like nuts and I enjoyed this muchly.
Where to get it: Magnolia Candy Kitchen, which, while located in the French Quarter, is not along the touristy stretch and will offer you some peace and goddamn quiet while you nibble on your historically important sweet, nutty candy.
How much you’ll pay: We paid about $3 each for one praline, though they come in boxes of six, eight, or ten (about $20) if you’re feeling a little extra keen.
Foodie or not, do not pass up a chance to scour this awesomely quirky and unique US city. Because foodie or not, you’ll love it.
